Check this out!  A brand new publication, “A Shoreland Homeowner’s Guide to Stormwater Management: protecting your home & environment” by the NH Dept. of Environmental Services provides several simple and cost effective practices that shoreland homeowners can install to address stormwater runoff from roofs, patios, lawns and driveways.

by Jeff Schloss, Extension Professor and Water Resources Specialist, University of New Hampshire

There is often controversy and confusion regarding lawns on shoreland properties.  Some consider lawns inconsistent with the natural shoreland ecology while others want to bring to their shoreland home the same look and feel as the neighborhoods in surburbia that they have grown up with. 

As all vegetation provides at least some water quality functions, a lawn managed in the proper way can still allow for stabilized soils, filtered water infiltration into the ground and some nutrient and pollutant capture.  And, as with all vegetation, lawns sequester carbon dioxide, produce oxygen and, by doing so, cool the planet.  Thus, lawns still make a better alternative to pavement or patios which create greater runoff conditions and impede groundwater recharge. 

Of course, managed improperly, lawns and their care can add to pollutant and nutrient loading to our surface and ground waters, attract nuisance weed plants and insect pests (and even big pests like Canadian Geese!), impact important plant and wildlife species, as well as greatly reduce the available drinkable water supply with their potential need for irrigation.  So, how might you maintain a lawn area to enjoy on your shoreland property (or any property for that matter) while minimizing your impacts to the water quality and natural ecology?

The recent publication, “Landscaping at the Waters Edge: An ecological approach” from UNH Cooperative Extension (extension.unh.edu/resources/) covers the importance of considering how you may landscape your shoreline property for the improvement of water quality as you also enhance the enjoyment and value of your property.  While the publication goes into much greater and more specific detail, the information below is a good start when considering lawns and their potential impacts to water quality.

Everything in moderation.  We often hear from our health providers that moderation is the key to healthy living and the same holds true for natural systems.  Questions to ask yourself here include: How much lawn or open space do we really need for our intended uses?  Do we need to have our open space all as a monoculture of a single type of grass or can we live with a combination of grasses and groundcovers that match our use?  There are many varieties of grasses depending on the type and frequency of use (i.e.; occasionally picnicking to kids playing ball everyday) and site conditions (soils, sun exposure and slope).  Recently developed fescue grasses, for example, require less maintenance (water, mowing and fertilizing) and can even be obtained with symbiotic bacteria in their roots that make the grass better resistant to pests and diseases.  The best approach is a mix of grass species with other groundcovers and white clover (or another low growing legume to naturally supply nitrogen to the soil).  Talk to your county extension educator, landscaper, or garden center expert about your options.

Location, location, location. Yes, the mantra of real estate agents also works well for lawns.  Since a lawn requires additional maintenance that even, when not excessive, can still threaten water quality, locating the lawn as far away from the shore as you possibly can and maintaining a significant buffer area downslope from the lawn with a mix of shrubs and woody plants to make up for this.  A lawn leading right down to the water is the worst thing for the water and it will attract nuisance geese.  It’s a known fact that keeping the vegetation high at the waters edge will discourage geese from coming onto a property.  It also provides many water quality and wildlife related benefits.

Test first, apply later.  It is most important to test your soil before even thinking about applying fertilizers.  Once grass is established, fertilizing more than once a year (unless the yearly dosage is applied in fractions) is generally excessive and can lead to excess nitrogen loading to surface and groundwaters. Lawns tend to need less acidic soils, so sometimes just applying crushed limestone to reduce the acidity can release enough nutrients that were bound to the soil to maintain the lawn.  A soil test will let you know exactly what you need to maintain a healthy lawn.  As will often be the case if the test informs you that only nitrogen is needed, look for low to no phosphorus fertilizer blends (middle number of the N-P-K rating on the bag should be “0”) since phosphorous causes algae blooms in lakes.  Generally, a well-established lawn can survive adequately with no more than one to two pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet.  The best time to apply fertilizer on an established lawn is around mid-September when the grass is still active enough to incorporate the fertilizer into the plants, the summer drought is over and the surrounding vegetation is well established to capture any runoff from your lawn.  Choose slow release fertilizers only, to ensure less polluted runoff.  Many folks apply crushed limestone in the spring and fertilize in the fall.  Some folks have never felt the need to fertilize and others have had their best results just using lake water (which usually contains small amounts of nutrients) for irrigation.  It is really up to you to balance the results you are looking for with the minimum applications needed.  Remember, the NH Comprehensive Shoreland Protection Act prohibits applying anything except limestone in areas within 25 feet of the high water line except in some circumstances.

Read the fine print! A recent survey in Maine indicated that many consumers did not realize that “Weed & Feed” products contain both fertilizers and pesticides.  Why pay for and put down something that can potentially threaten the health of pets and children and water quality when you may not need it in the first place?  If you do have weed or insect problems, consult with your county extension educator, landscaper or garden center expert to learn of safer alternative controls.  No matter what you choose to use, always read the application directions and never over-apply.  Many of the plants and animals that form the foundation of the aquatic food web are extremely sensitive to pesticides.

Conserve every drop.  If you are on a public water supply, it is best to choose grass species with low watering requirements or use alternative irrigation supplies like rain barrels or cisterns or even the water directly from the shore.  Summer water demand for lawns can be very significant.  Depending on the species and soil conditions, you should water only when needed, no more than a half inch to an inch total weekly.  You can use a rain gauge or a can to measure rainfall and irrigation amounts.  Early morning watering is preferable to minimize evaporation loss but give the water enough time to infiltrate and to allow the leaf blades to completely dry before night to not encourage disease problems.  Keeping the lawn height at least three inches or higher will also encourage deeper roots which require less water (and a mulching mower blade will allow for those grass clippings to recycle nutrients back into the soil).  Remember that in times of drought and hot summer, lawns are supposed to go dormant.  Letting this happen is the most environmentally friendly thing you can do.

So, the choices are yours—you can have an open space on your property with minimum impact to our waters if you can restrict its size, locate it properly, provide adequate vegetative buffer areas down-slope and use low input design and maintenance methods.

For more information:
Contact Jeff Schloss at jeff.schloss@unh.edu.

The key for home builders is finding the balance between what buyers want and the price point.  For many buyers, their next house will be smaller than their current one.  Large kitchens that are open to the main family living area, old-fashioned bathrooms with clawfoot tubs and small spaces such as wine grottos are design features that will resonate today.

Here are 9 “must” features in new homes:

Large kitchens, with an island.  If you’re going to spend design dollars, spend them where people want them, in the kitchen. Granite countertops are a must for move-up buyers and buyers of custom homes.

Energy-efficient appliances, high-efficiency insulation and high window efficiency. Among the “green” features touted in homes, these are the ones buyers value most. While large windows had been a major draw, energy concerns are giving customers pause on those. The use of recycled or synthetic materials is only borderline desirable.

Home office/study. People would much rather have this space rather than, say, a formal dining room. People are feeling like they can dine out again and so the dining room has become tradable. And the home theater may also be headed for the scrap heap, a casualty of the shift from boom to correction.

Main-floor master suite. This is a must feature for empty- nesters and certain other buyers, and appears to be getting more popular in general. That could help explain why demand for upstairs laundries is declining after several years of popularity gains.

Outdoor living room. The popularity of outdoor spaces continues to grow, even in New Hampshire. And the idea of an outdoor room is even more popular than an outdoor cooking area, meaning people are willing to spend more time outside.

Ceiling fans.

Oversize custom showers. Whirlpools are still desirable for many home buyers, but they clearly went down a notch in the latest survey. Oversize custom showers with seating areas moving up in popularity among our clients.

Stone veneer  and timber details on exteriors.  Vinyl doesn’t make the cut.

Two-car garages. A given at all levels; three-car garages, in which the third bay is more often than not used for additional storage and not automobiles, is desirable in the move up and custom categories.

I just saw this solar standing-seam metal roof system in one of my trade magazines!  Not only does it look great, but it will qualify for federal stimulus rebates of up to 30% of the cost.

FusionSolar™ is a thin-film solar laminate for commercial and residential applications that’s integrated with standing seam metal roof panels. Manufactured for Custom-Bilt Metals by Uni-Solar®, the world leader in thin-film technologies and solar electric laminates, FusionSolar is bonded directly to the standing seam roof panels in the factory. The flexibility and durability of the laminate makes it ideal for metal roofs, where expansion, contraction and curving are considerations. No roof penetrations are required, and because the material is lightweight, no additional structural support is required.

A COMPLETE SYSTEM

FusionSolar is installed as a complete system with all the necessary components. It includes all the electrical components, detailed schematics and specifications that an electrical subcontractor needs for installation.

No specialized solar installers are required. Sheet metal and roofing professionals install the standing seam roof with the thin film already attached. Then an electrical subcontractor completes the installation.

Once installed, the system will begin generating clean, renewable and dependable electric power. Working together with public utilities, the system draws electricity from the grid if needed. Those in the structure use electricity as they do now, and won’t notice any difference.

HIGHLY DURABLE

The laminate bond that’s created between the thin film and the metal roof has been tested to withstand winds of 160 mph. Once installed, the laminate can be safely walked on without causing damage.

FASTER RETURN ON INVESTMENT

Offering a lower cost-per-watt than roof-mounted polycrystalline panels, FusionSolar will pay for itself in 10 years or even less. Once installed, it’s a fixed cost that’s immune from rate hikes.

AESTHETIC DESIGN

The thin-film laminate can cover all of a standing seam roof or just a portion. Lying flat and flush with the surface, the thin film flows with the roof profile, even on curved designs.

NO ROOF PENETRATION REQUIRED

Unlike large polycrystalline panels that are attached by drilling through a roof, FusionSolar is fused directly to the standing seam panel. There’s no roof penetration or possibility of leaking as a result of the installation.

HIGHLY EFFICIENT

Compared to other solar technologies, FusionSolar thin-film laminate achieves a higher relative efficiency under high temperatures and low light.

ENVIRONMENTALLY SAFE

Electricity generated by FusionSolar produces no pollution, replacing electricity that is most often created by burning coal.

Really?   That’s what President Obama said when promoting new tax credits for energy efficiency. He was talking about the so-called “Cash for Caulkers” program (more officially known as Homestar). It’s a program that’s been proposed by both venture capitalist John Doerr and former President Bill Clinton that would offer homeowners money for weatherization as part of another stimulus package. The program would give tax breaks to pay for upgrades and energy audits.

It’s a great idea — it creates business, therefore creates jobs and makes homes more efficient. People like to talk about building more energy efficient homes, but the reality is that even building every one of the 500,000 or so homes being built more efficiently will make only a tiny dent in energy usage compared to the potential of upgrading the millions of existing homes. Supporters of the program, which is apparently being considered at the White House, say it would lead to retrofits of 5.9 million homes and create 500,000 jobs.

The Home Star program — or “Cash for Caulkers” as some have dubbed it — could provide a big boost to home energy efficiency through billions in tax credits and other incentives over two years. President Obama came out in favor of the program in December as part of the administration’s plan to drive job creation, but the final approval has to come from Congress. The exact size of the program is uncertain, but Efficiency First, a trade association started in early 2009 for home energy-efficiency contractors that helped craft Home Star, put the price tag at about $23 billion.

What would the money go for? Here’s how Efficiency First breaks it down:

•$6 billion in funding for homeowner incentives for those who do at least two significant weatherization projects from a list of 10 eligible project types such as air sealing or insulation. Completing two projects would result in up to $2,000 in subsidies and completing four could earn $3,500, capped at 50 percent of project cost.

•$12 billion for homeowners who undertake a weatherization project that reduces energy consumption by at least 20 percent. A 20 percent reduction would earn a $4,000 subsidy and each additional 5 percent would result in another $1,500 subsidy, with funding capped at 50 percent of project cost.

•$2 billion for program administration, including audits of some projects to confirm they’re meeting the energy improvements

•$3 billion in incentives to encourage retailers to support the program to build awareness and educate consumers

Efficiency First says the program would result in 5.9 million residential energy retrofits and create more than 500,000 jobs new jobs in construction and related industries. “Unemployment in the construction industry is double the rest of the economy,” says Matt Golden, founding president of Efficiency First. “Considering the underreporting in this industry, it’s probably really up in the 20s. These really are smart jobs, because they’re long-term.”

The National Association of Home Builders estimates that 11,000 jobs; $527 million in wages and salaries; and $300 million in business income are generated by every $1 billion in new remodeling and home improvement activity. “That’s a huge impact just in the short run, and in the long run, the energy savings for participating homeowners can be quite significant,” says NAHB Chairman Joe Robson.

(Adapted from an article in Professional Remodeler Magazine)

1. Wire for everything now…even wireless – If you are building or remodeling a home, start with a plan for future wiring needs. Wire is necessary to support wireless applications. While no one can guarantee what the future will look like, CEDIA professionals make it their business to stay current to offer expert advice about technologies on the horizon.

2. Insist on integrated systems – Make sure the electronic equipment you are buying can be hooked up together and operated with one, easy to use control system. Systems that communicate simplify your life and offer peace of mind by “watching” over your home.

3. Integrate lighting and heating control – Going green meets convenience. Get the most out of your system with the least amount of energy consumption. System integration provides automatic energy-efficient adjustments saving you time and money.

4. Think with your wallet, but lead with your head – Quality and long-term dependability are the most cost effective attributes that you can build into a home.

5. Buy an experience, not a box – Find an electronic systems contractor that allows you to test drive the entire system or at least experience the thrill of a high performance system. Few people have the time to research and evaluate all the hardware choices. It’s smarter to focus on the end result and make your choices based upon overall performance and value.

6. Simplify your controls – Easy to use, all-in-one remote controls are available for any system. You can even have them custom programmed so they make perfect sense to you. New technologies offer control from other devices and even through Internet browsers anywhere in the world.

7. Increase your expectations – Your home electronics system is a big investment and you deserve to be satisfied with it. CEDIA professionals will provide you with extensive options, comprehensive designs, complete installation and especially, in-home service for your systems.

8. Think “green” – By utilizing green practices, you can save money by having a more energy efficient system and help save the planet. Ask a professional about how you can “go green” in your home.

9. Ensure the experts work together for you – Maximize your home’s electronic systems capabilities by having your architect, builder or remodeler, and interior designer collaborate and partner with an electronic systems contractor from the beginning of the planning process.

10. Consult a professional – Today’s integrated electronic systems grow, evolve and change over time, constantly adding entertainment, comfort and security features. Select an electronic systems contractor you can trust and who will support your electronic integration needs for years. Having a long-term relationship with one professional will maximize the reliability and enjoyment of your home’s electronic systems. Find a CEDIA Certified Professional near you at www.cedia.org.

“We anticipate that through the end of our first year of operation we’ll be able to meet all of the demand for residential application,” said Jack Ruderman, director of the state’s Sustainable Energy Division. “If you’re a homeowner and you want to get a system, you’re in great shape. After July (of 2010, when the program must be renewed), it’s harder to predict.”

The total installed capacity of the applications is 641 kilowatts, or more than half a megawatt.  This is tiny by utility standards: A small power plant has a capacity of 15 megawatts, or 23 times the total of all these applications, while a big one like Public Service of New Hampshire’s Merrimack Valley plant in Bow can generate almost 800 times as much electricity.

On the other hand, it is a huge expansion of the amount of the state’s “distributed power,” a term for electricity generated at the site it is used rather than by large, centralized power plants. Aside from the pollution benefits of coming from solar or wind power rather than burning fossil fuels, this electricity can reduce the need to build more power lines to carry power from power plants.

These are different from large-scale alternative energy programs like the 25-megawatt Lempster Mountain wind farm or the 51-kilowatt solar array that PSNH placed on its Manchester headquarters.

In the Nashua region, 15 applications had been turned in by mid-December, totalling 44 kilowatts; all but one are for solar panels. They are requesting $73,000 in rebates, roughly one-fifth of the total $378,000 cost of the projects.  Requests for applications came in from all over the state – from Nashua to Newfields, Lyndeborough to Laconia, Pelham to Portsmouth.  Facilities ranged in cost from $3,600 (a tiny, 960-watt solar system in Gorham) to $52,422 (a wind tower in Orange).

Most applicants will receive the maximum rebate of $6,000, although no rebate could be more than half the installed cost.  Money for the rebates comes from the state’s renewable portfolio standard, which gets money from the state’s utilities, mostly through what are called alternative compliance payments.  The total amount collected is about $4.5 million, so there’s more than enough to cover all home rebates, Ruderman said.

That money also will be used for future commercial rebate programs, which are going to be far more expensive, and perhaps even projects contracted out by the Sustainable Energy Division.

 David Brooks,  Nashua Telegraph.

Efforts to stem the proliferation of monster homes have reached epic proportions in recent years. But the battle lines are sometimes fuzzy because the enemy isn’t always clear.

What exactly is a McMansion?  By some accounts, it’s the gargantuan greenfield tract home with a Hummer parked out front that perpetuates sprawl and makes gas guzzling a way of life. Others use the derisive term to describe ostentatious infill homes that—while walkable to schools, shops, and transit—tower over beloved bungalows in established neighborhoods in a way that is less than neighborly.

But different people live by different standards of propriety, and that’s where codifying the offenders becomes difficult.   “One market’s McMansion is another market’s standard issue house,” notes Robert Lang, former co-director of the Metropolitan Institute at Virginia Tech who now heads up the newly minted Brookings Mountain West program at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas. “If you’re in Dallas, 5,000 square feet is the house you buy on a two-faculty salary. But if you are in Boston or San Francisco, this is not a normal-sized house. It’s not fair to come up with a blanket definition. However, every area has its over-the-top houses, and people know which ones they are.”

This may explain why some would-be reformers find it easier to define the essence of McMansion-hood by its antithesis.  Dave Wax, co-founder of the online company FreeGreen (which offers free house plans for small, high-performance homes), defines McMansions as houses that are built to minimum code specifications and saddlebagged with spaces that are used less than 30 percent of the time by their owners. “Like all stereotypes, it’s a term that has no definition and so is inherently unfair,” Wax concedes. “That said, having a bad guy is necessary for any social change. And so the McMansion is the bad guy.”

Can the vilified McMansion, in its various forms and habitats, survive a post-recession economy? Many signs suggest the odds are stacked against it. Lending standards have tightened, and many buyers no longer have the cash on hand for down payments on fancy homes. Add to that a U.S. unemployment rate that continues to hover around 9.5 percent and resale competition from foreclosures (many of which are McMansions themselves), and the outlook seems bleak for showy homes that many consider emblems of decadence and greed.

Even for those who can afford them, trophy homes constitute an image problem at a time when modesty has become fashionable. One recent CNNMoney.com poll asked more than 33,000 online readers if they thought American homes had gotten too big; 69 percent said yes.

Demand for big houses could also fizzle as population shifts place families with kids in the home buying minority. Some demographers estimate that up to 80 percent of new households formed over the next 15 years will be child-free as Baby Boomers empty their nests and career-driven Millennials postpone marriage and kids.

Arthur “Chris” Nelson, director of the Metropolitan Research Center at the University of Utah, predicts that as a result, the nation could see a surplus of 22 million large-lot homes by 2025. Household sizes are trending smaller at the same time that household budgets have become leaner. That makes butler pantries and media rooms a tougher sell.

In fact, the residential landscape is already changing. In a recent poll of 500 residential architects by the American Institute of Architects (AIA), only 4 percent of respondents reported that their clients were requesting more square footage in new projects, compared to 16 percent in 2008. A subsequent AIA Home Design Trends Survey found significant decreases in consumer spending on features such as in-law suites, three-car garages, and home theaters. Builders are singing a similar tune, with 90 percent of respondents in a recent NAHB poll indicating plans to build smaller.

So it’s no surprise that American house sizes, which doubled from 1960 to the height of the boom, are now backpedaling. The average house breaking ground in the first quarter of 2009 was 2,335 square feet, down from 2,629 square feet in the second quarter of 2008, according to NAHB figures. Since 2007, median sizes for new single-family homes have fallen nearly 10 percent.

By:  Jenny Sullivan – Builder Magazine

Why? Many current buyers are interested in homes that are energy efficient and economical to operate, which are factors that can be dramatically affected by a home’s hot water usage. According to the DOE’s Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy, water heating is the third-largest expense in most homes, accounting for 14% to 25% of a home’s expenses. In some cases, that percentage may even be higher, which means energy-conserving hot water solutions also could result in big cost savings for homeowners in this difficult economy.

Currently, the most popular energy-efficient option for water heating is a tankless water heater, also known as an on-demand system. Unlike a traditional tank that heats a reservoir of water 24 hours a day, a tankless unit activates only as needed. When there is a demand for heated water, cold water travels through the tankless unit, where a gas burner quickly heats it to the preset temperature.

According to www.smarterhotwater.com, a Web site launched by Alabama-based Rheem Manufacturing, the average annual operating cost for a conventional storage is between $230 and $285, nearly twice the cost for a tankless system. They estimate a tankless hot water heater would cost $165 to $170 annually to operate.  Given those numbers, the decision to go tankless might seem simple, but like many other construction technologies, tankless water heater usage in the United States lags behind the rest of the world.

Cost could be a factor since in the U.S. market, tankless heaters cost significantly more than a conventional system. But it also could be a matter of educating the American market about the product. In recent years, manufacturers say awareness has grown significantly, and so has usage, which has seen double-digit increases. Consumers, not builders, are driving the demand for tankless water heaters.

Does that mean that everyone should install tankless in their homes? There are pro’s and con’s. While tankless technology can reduce a home’s energy costs by as much as 25% annually compared to a standard 40-gallon tank heater, there are other considerations. Standard storage tanks now qualify for Energy Star certification. And tankless systems may have other issues that negate its energy performance and lower operating costs.

Here’s a handy guide outlining the pros and cons of tankless water heaters versus conventional storage tanks that you can use to evaluate the options for your situation:

Conventional Water Heater

Pros for Conventional

• Proven technology that builders and home owners know and trust. The straightforward system has been around for years and works well.
• Low product cost and low installation cost. A basic 30-gallon electric tank can be purchased for less than $300. Installation is fairly simple.
• Inexpensive replacement cost. If and when a water heater goes bad, the system can easily replaced with a similar unit for about $500 to $800.
• Energy Star tanks are now available. As of this year, the Energy Star program certifies conventional high-efficiency gas water heaters, so it’s possible to save energy and money. Units must have an energy factor of .62.

Cons for Conventional:

• Conventional tanks are always on. No matter how energy efficient it is, a storage tank cycles on a regular basis to heat and reheat water at a preset temperature, using energy to heat the water whether a homeowner needs it or not.
• Big and bulky. Most storage tanks take up precious real estate in a mechanical or laundry room, especially in smaller homes such as apartments, condos, or townhouses.
• May be inadequate. Depending on the capacity and household hot water needs, a conventional storage tank may not be able to meet demand. “If not sized correctly for peak demand, tank water heaters will run out of hot water,” according to www.smarterhotwater.com. In addition, only about 70% of the hot water in a typical storage tank is available for use.
• Less versatile installation. The unit needs a fairly large space for installation.
• Less durable. The life expectancy of a conventional hot water tank is about 12 to 15 years.

Tankless Hot Water Heater

Pros for Tankless:

• Saves energy. The unit only operates when there is a demand for hot water, which can reduce its energy cost by about 25% annually.
• Highly efficient. The most efficient storage tank has an energy factor of about .67, but, according to Energy Star, some tankless units have energy factors as high as .95.
• Reliable. If a unit is sized properly, a gas tankless heater can deliver a continuous supply of water at a preset temperature (plus or minus one degree) at a rate of typically 2 gallons to 5 gallons per minute. The units never run out of hot water, though the flow rate may be inadequate during times of peak demand, according to www.smarterhotwater.com.
• Compact size. The typical tankless heater is about the size of a small suitcase, which takes up significantly less space than a conventional tank.
• Durable. It has a life expectancy of 20 years or more.
• Versatile. The unit is easy to zone and it can go almost anywhere in the house.
• Tankless units cost about twice as much as traditional storage tanks. A typical tankless unit may cost about $700 and can easily top $1,500.
• Installation is expensive. In addition to the high product cost, installation for the unit and the necessary piping can be pricey. They also need very good venting, which is also expensive.
• Retrofit is pricey and complicated. Unlike a traditional tank, retrofitting a home with a tankless unit is difficult and expensive. “In new construction, the labor time required to install a tankless water [heater] is about the same as a tank water heater,” according to www.smarterhotwater.com. But the equation changes in a remodeling situation. The process is complicated, and the installed costs to replace a tank water heater with a tankless unit can be as high as $3,000.
• Best performance comes from gas units. Though gas-fired tankless units are great performers for whole-house use, electric units are woefully inadequate. Electric units are not Energy Star-rated, Aikens says, and “require significant amounts of energy to use.”

Cons for Tankless:

• Tankless units cost about twice as much as traditional storage tanks. A typical tankless unit may cost about $700 and can easily top $1,500.
• Installation is expensive. In addition to the high product cost, installation for the unit and the necessary piping can be pricey. They also need very good venting, which is also expensive.
• Retrofit is pricey and complicated. Unlike a traditional tank, retrofitting a home with a tankless unit is difficult and expensive. “In new construction, the labor time required to install a tankless water [heater] is about the same as a tank water heater,” according to www.smarterhotwater.com. But the equation changes in a remodeling situation. The process is complicated, and the installed costs to replace a tank water heater with a tankless unit can be as high as $3,000.
• Best performance comes from gas units. Though gas-fired tankless units are great performers for whole-house use, electric units are woefully inadequate. Electric units are not Energy Star-rated, Aikens says, and “require significant amounts of energy to use.”

(Excerpted from Builder Magazine)

But what, exactly, does the legislation say? Do the credits apply only to principal residences? Can owners of condominiums or cooperatives qualify? Does the Internal Revenue Service define “cost” to include labor as well as materials? And what kind of documentation is required to claim the credits?

The posts our section on the Stimulus answer these and a host of other questions relating to the ARRA. Our posts will include a detailed description of requirements in three major categories:

1. Building envelope (roofing, insulation, and window and door replacement)
2. HVAC systems (boilers and furnaces, biomass stoves, and water heaters)
3. Renewable energy systems (geothermal heat pumps, and solar-, wind-, and fuel cell–powered electricity generators).

The chart summarizes requirements for each category, which are treated in more detail in separate sections. Expanded coverage, including IRS rules updates and interpretations, can be found at www.thestimulussource.com. 

Used properly, the ARRA gives remodelers a way to jump-start their businesses while helping you, the homeowner, to not only save money but create a more energy-efficient future.

(Excerpted from an article from Remodeling Magazine)