Bath design trends for 2011

February 21st, 2011 by Everett Pollard

More than 100 designers who are members of the National Kitchen & Bath Association (NKBA), and have designed kitchens or bathrooms during the last three months of 2010, participated in an NKBA survey to reveal design trends in the marketplace for 2011. The results of this survey suggest there will be some changes in the direction that kitchen and bath styles will take this year. Below are 4 bathroom trends that are poised to take hold in 2011.

1) Quartz Countertops

Quartz continues to take away market share from granite in the market for bathroom vanity tops. A year ago, 85% of NKBA bathroom designers incorporated granite into a recent design, compared to just 48% for quartz, but now, that gap has narrowed to 83% for granite and 54% for quartz. Unlike in the kitchen, solid surfaces haven’t gained much popularity in the bathroom, increasing only from 23% to 25% over the past year. Meanwhile, solid marble has declined from 46% to 37%, while cultured marble and onyx have increased from 12% to 19%. No other material has even 10% of the market.

2) Green Bathrooms

No, we’re not referring to eco-friendly spaces—we literally mean green bathrooms. A year ago, green color palettes were used by only 14% of NKBA designers, but at the end of 2010, that figure had risen to 24%. Still, whites and off-whites, beiges, and browns are the three most commonly used color tones in bathrooms. However, while white and off-white palettes are up slightly from 57% to 60%, beiges are down sharply from 66% to 57%, while browns have dropped from 48% to 38%. Other common color tones include blues at 22%, grays at 21%, and bronzes and terracottas at 17%.

3) A Worthy Vessel

Undermount sinks continue to dominate newly remodeled bathrooms, with 97% of NKBA bathroom designers having specified them over the last three months of 2010, up from 95% a year earlier. However, vessel sinks have become the clear second choice among designers, as 51% of NKBA member designers have specified them in the final quarter of 2010, up from 39% a year ago. Integrated sink tops were also up from 34% to 38%, pedestal sinks were up from 21% to 29%, and drop-in sinks were up from 23% to 27%. This shows that bathroom designers have been specifying more lavatory sinks across the board.

4) Satin Nickel Faucets

This trend relates to both bathrooms and kitchens. From the end of 2009 to the end of 2010, the percent of NKBA designers who specified a satin nickel faucet rose from 41% to 63% in the kitchen and from 45% to 57% in the bathroom, while the percent who specified a brushed nickel faucet fell from 61% to 48% in the kitchen and from 66% to 38% in the bathroom. Other popular faucet finishes in both the kitchen and bathroom are bronze and oil-rubbed bronze, polished chrome, and polished nickel. However, while stainless steel is popular in the kitchen, specified recently by 44% of designers, that figure drops to just 16% in the bathroom.

What is Aging in Place?

October 6th, 2010 by Everett Pollard

Seventy-seven million baby boomers are reaching retirement age and nearly half of them do not feel that their home will fully meet their needs as they grow older.  Most Americans would prefer to remain in their homes as they mature rather than seek assisted living and other arrangements.

“Aging in place” means remaining in one’s home safely, independently and comfortably, regardless of age, income or ability level.  It means the pleasure of living in a familiar environment throughout one’s maturing years and the ability to enjoy the familiar daily rituals and the special events that enrich all our lives.  It means the reassurance of being able to call a house a “home” for a lifetime.

I am currently taking classes through the NAHB to become a Certified Aging-In-Place Specialist.  The classes are for designing and building aesthetically enriching barrier-free living environments for the adult market.  If you are interested in this, please give me a call!

Everett Pollard, (603) 763-2477, x-11

Making Sense of a Timber Frame Puzzle – My First TF Design!

October 1st, 2010 by Everett Pollard

By Everett Pollard

This article appeared in the Fall issue of Design Lines magazine, a publication of the American Institute of Building Design.

Northcape Design-Build-160

 The traditional joinery of timber framing has a timeless, elegant beauty that my wife Robin and I had long been drawn to when we set out to design our own timber frame home in New Hampshire ten years ago. In some ways, it was an ambitious undertaking. Even though I had been a residential designer for 24 years and had built several post-and-beam homes by then, I had never designed or built a true timber frame, one held together with mortise-and-tenon joints and wood pegs instead of mechanical fasteners and steel plate connectors.

 Because timber frame homes have a sturdy, self-supporting structure comprised entirely of interlocking wood parts, I assumed that a critical component of the design would require getting that intricate, hidden geometry exactly right. As it turned out, I was only half correct, but like so much to do with timber framing, I had a lot to learn and not much time to do it. After selling our previous house—a modest Cape Cod—faster than we intended, Robin and I had squeezed ourselves, two cats and a dog into a 700-square-foot cottage, and when the one-year lease expired, we needed someplace to move into. My crash course in timber framing took less than three months, but what I learned about designing these houses will last a lifetime.

Hitting the Books

Fortunately, I couldn’t have picked a better place to learn about timber frames than my own home state. New Hampshire is for timber framers what Montana is for log builders—a Mecca for devotees and practitioners of this Old World craftsmanship. Even the real estate agent who sold our home had more than a passing knowledge of timber frames having been the sales manager for a nationally known timber frame company before switching careers. When I asked him which timber frame company was the best, he surprised me by naming, not the large company he had once worked for, but a small Canadian business instead, Pine Ridge Timber Frame Homes in London, Ontario.

 Two weeks later, Robin and I headed to Ontario to meet Mike Mader, the owner of Pine Ridge. We knew we had found the timber frame company for our home when we toured Mader’s plant, where all the beams were initially cut and milled. His shop crew hand-finished the joints, chamfered the edges and sealed the beams with Danish oil. We even visited several timber frame homes, including Mader’s. In fact, Mader would become both friend and tutor in my efforts to learn more about timber frame design.

 The teetering stacks of timber frame magazines lying around my house were another educational resource. Written primarily for consumers, these magazines offer a wealth of information about design and construction as well as the process of working with a timber frame company. Books on timber framing also helped, particularly The Timber-Frame Home by Tedd Benson, the owner of a New Hampshire timber frame company who is credited with reviving this style of home. His book has great details on how to design a timber frame with structural insulated panels that enclose the exterior of the frame, which still remains exposed indoors.

 Putting the Pieces Together

One important discovery I made right away: I did not need to know how to design timber frame joinery; Pine Ridge would do that for me. But I did need to understand the building blocks of timber frames, including their primary structural component: the bent, a network of timbers that form one cross-sectional piece of the frame. Bents are made up of principal rafters, tie beams and posts and are connected to each other with some combination of girts, plates, joists, purlins or ridge plates to form a bay.

 There are a variety of bents, any of which can be modified to construct sections of the house and give it a distinct shape. I designed my own home with five bents, placed roughly every 14 to 16 feet. Rafters or horizontal purlins make up a timber frame’s roof structure, but its artistry lies with the trusses. A designer can complement the main frame using different styles of trusses such as king post, scissor or my favorite, the hammer beam, which I included in my own home.

 As luck would have it, Mader had a frame to erect in Maine, and on his way there, he stopped and stayed with us for two days to teach me more about timber frames. I was especially surprised to learn that only two opposing knee braces were needed for each wall, no matter its length. For decorative purposes, more braces could be added to frame a window or passageway. Mader also advised using a conventionally framed floor system over the joist beams to provide space not only for sound-attenuating insulation but also for recessed lights, plumbing, heating and wiring—anything, in fact, that needs to be completely hidden. That’s a challenge with timber frames because they offer few places to hide a home’s infrastructure. For simplicity, I designed my home so that all the plumbing and wiring runs through interior rather than exterior walls, where the framing is exposed.

 Although I relied heavily on Pine Ridge’s expertise for the structure, I still needed to learn the many sizes and spans of beams to design the home’s spaces accurately. For example, my design needed to account for where a beam or post would be to ensure that a door had enough room to open completely. Because the timber frame’s structure is inside the building shell, I also needed to allow enough depth for headroom, especially over doors, and I quickly discovered that the home looks more attractive if interior walls are placed to intersect with the beams and posts, just not in mid-span.

 SIPs were another component of the design that Mader shared with me. These panels encase the frame’s exterior in the most insulating, energy-efficient envelope possible. They also help support the structure because timber frames have no load-bearing walls; the posts carry the structure’s entire load instead. As a result, every post must be part of the floor system with solid blocking beneath it so that the weight can be transferred directly to the foundation.

 Because a timber frame is built from the inside out, its construction is a carefully choreographed sequence of delivery and installation. Each bent is assembled first on the ground, then raised and connected together in a process much like an old-fashioned barn raising, except that today’s timber frames make prodigious use of cranes and forklifts. (The building site needs to be generous to accommodate the crane, the home’s footprint and a place to assemble the frame.) Once the frame is up, the pine paneling on the roof comes next, serving as the finished ceiling. At that time, any wiring for chandeliers or ceiling fans is installed. Then the drywall is screwed to the frame’s exterior sidewalls, with SIPs placed last around the structure’s perimeter and over the roof. When my own home was built, Mader and one of his project managers were on site to supervise raising the frame and installing the panels.

 One nice construction feature: Timber frames go up quickly. Our 4,000-square-foot home had its timber frame assembled, raised and enclosed with SIPs in just nine days. The entire experience was so thrilling that in the ensuing years I’ve designed and built over a dozen timber frames for clients with Pine Ridge’s help. In fact, we have one under construction right now and another in design. Meanwhile, Robin and I continue to enjoy our home’s warm, natural beauty, and if we should ever move, we are certain of one thing: It will be to another timber frame. 

Everett Pollard is president and senior designer of Northcape Design Build in Sunapee, N.H. To view pictures of his timber frame home, visit www.northcapedesign.com, click on “portfolio” and under “new homes,” select “Harbor Haven.”

Green Home Appraisal Woes!

September 13th, 2010 by Everett Pollard

By Scott Gibson, Green Building Advisor.com

Without realistic “comps” that properly value energy-saving features, obtaining a home loan may be difficult.  Passive solar designs that include generous amounts of insulation can save homeowners a great deal of money in operating costs over the life of the house. But getting banks to approve loans that reflect somewhat higher construction costs can be a struggle, sometimes forcing builders to dial back their plans and deliver a less efficient house.

This dilemma was at the heart of a question from a green builder and the topic of this week’s Q&A Spotlight.

Danny Kelly was trying to build a house that would qualify for a Gold or Emerald rating from the National Green Building Standard. It included upgraded insulation, high performance HVAC, a solar water heater, tight building envelope, and passive solar design — in other words, all the features you’d like to see in a house.  The rub was the appraiser who valued the house for loan purposes. “The appraiser and the bank said they do not give any extra ‘credit’ for green features,” Kelly wrote. “One of the comps they used was over 25 years old, so not even on par with a code house from an energy code perspective… [The] bank does not seem interested in helping much either.”

The trouble with finding ‘comps’
In setting the value of a house for loan purposes, real estate appraisers conduct field inspections and also must find sales of similar houses in the same area. Those are called comparables, or comps.

Appraisers make adjustments in value based on the age, size, and condition of houses in the same area that have sold recently. It’s part number-crunching and part intuition.  “Despite my strong personal feelings, most appraisers’ hands are tied by comparable sales in your area,” writes Green Country Homes, a licensed appraiser. “No green comps, no chance for a realistic appraisal.”

Green Country says an “educated appraiser” gave him a $25,000 green adjustment on a $340,000 property last year, only to have it disallowed by the bank review appraiser.  Because comps in the community were so limited, Green Country’s $315,000 appraisal was cut to $285,000 by the bank review appraiser and the buyers walked because they thought they were overpaying by $55,000.  “Green building, in many markets, is like the $1,000 bath faucet,” Green Country says. “The appraiser gives you no extra value for the more expensive faucet that does the same job as the $75 faucet. They have no comparables to justify the market paying more.”

Lower appraisal, lower standards
GBA advisor and builder Michael Chandler detailed the shortcomings of this system in a GBA post last year.  In his case, a customer was approved for a $400,000 home. Despite having a suitable lot and a design that fit his customer’s budget, the bank appraiser would not approve the actual cost of construction.  Because the owners couldn’t come up with any more cash, they had to drop the passive solar and solar hot water features, along with the spray foam insulation that Chandler had recommended. The owners could add a Jacuzzi or a home theater, Chandler complained, but not features that would improve energy efficiency.  “Part of the problem is that the appraisers get their data from a [Multiple Listing Service] that doesn’t necessarily show them what green features are included in the homes that have been sold,” Chandler wrote.

In a GBA column earlier this year, Richard Defendorf said that rules on finding comparables for appraisals can be a real problem.  “In some markets, a dearth of appraisers familiar with green construction — or perhaps even more critically, a scarcity of nearby listings with comparable green features — can frustrate prospective homebuyers and homeowners who wish to refinance,” Defendorf wrote.

So how does this problem get fixed?
“Find another bank,” says Robert Riversong. “Often local savings & loan institutions are both more in tune with the community and more open to different approaches.”  Riversong says he had a client who successfully won a construction loan and a mortgage from an S&L for a super-insulated house even though it was built of rough-sawn lumber with a frost-protected foundation, no central heat and no flush toilet.  That’s the power of a local bank that isn’t hamstrung by rigid national policy.

David Meiland suggested consulting RESNET, the Residential Energy Services Network, and two offices in the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development.

In the long term, it will take more than the understanding of local banks to fix this problem. Changing appraisal rules to allow more realistic adjustments for utility savings, and educating real estate agents on the value of green buildings also would help.

That won’t happen overnight.

Shoreland Homeowner’s Guide to Stormwater Management

May 22nd, 2010 by Everett Pollard

Are you a waterfront homeowner? If you are, your property may produce water that flows off the landscape and contributes pollutants directly into the lake you love. There’s probably a relatively easy way that you can fix the problem while, at the same time, beautifying your property.

Check this out!  A brand new publication, “A Shoreland Homeowner’s Guide to Stormwater Management: protecting your home & environment” by the NH Dept. of Environmental Services provides several simple and cost effective practices that shoreland homeowners can install to address stormwater runoff from roofs, patios, lawns and driveways.

Lake-Friendly Lawn Care

May 22nd, 2010 by Everett Pollard

Northcape Design-Build-214

by Jeff Schloss, Extension Professor and Water Resources Specialist, University of New Hampshire

There is often controversy and confusion regarding lawns on shoreland properties.  Some consider lawns inconsistent with the natural shoreland ecology while others want to bring to their shoreland home the same look and feel as the neighborhoods in surburbia that they have grown up with. 

As all vegetation provides at least some water quality functions, a lawn managed in the proper way can still allow for stabilized soils, filtered water infiltration into the ground and some nutrient and pollutant capture.  And, as with all vegetation, lawns sequester carbon dioxide, produce oxygen and, by doing so, cool the planet.  Thus, lawns still make a better alternative to pavement or patios which create greater runoff conditions and impede groundwater recharge. 

Of course, managed improperly, lawns and their care can add to pollutant and nutrient loading to our surface and ground waters, attract nuisance weed plants and insect pests (and even big pests like Canadian Geese!), impact important plant and wildlife species, as well as greatly reduce the available drinkable water supply with their potential need for irrigation.  So, how might you maintain a lawn area to enjoy on your shoreland property (or any property for that matter) while minimizing your impacts to the water quality and natural ecology?

The recent publication, “Landscaping at the Waters Edge: An ecological approach” from UNH Cooperative Extension (extension.unh.edu/resources/) covers the importance of considering how you may landscape your shoreline property for the improvement of water quality as you also enhance the enjoyment and value of your property.  While the publication goes into much greater and more specific detail, the information below is a good start when considering lawns and their potential impacts to water quality.

Everything in moderation.  We often hear from our health providers that moderation is the key to healthy living and the same holds true for natural systems.  Questions to ask yourself here include: How much lawn or open space do we really need for our intended uses?  Do we need to have our open space all as a monoculture of a single type of grass or can we live with a combination of grasses and groundcovers that match our use?  There are many varieties of grasses depending on the type and frequency of use (i.e.; occasionally picnicking to kids playing ball everyday) and site conditions (soils, sun exposure and slope).  Recently developed fescue grasses, for example, require less maintenance (water, mowing and fertilizing) and can even be obtained with symbiotic bacteria in their roots that make the grass better resistant to pests and diseases.  The best approach is a mix of grass species with other groundcovers and white clover (or another low growing legume to naturally supply nitrogen to the soil).  Talk to your county extension educator, landscaper, or garden center expert about your options.

Location, location, location. Yes, the mantra of real estate agents also works well for lawns.  Since a lawn requires additional maintenance that even, when not excessive, can still threaten water quality, locating the lawn as far away from the shore as you possibly can and maintaining a significant buffer area downslope from the lawn with a mix of shrubs and woody plants to make up for this.  A lawn leading right down to the water is the worst thing for the water and it will attract nuisance geese.  It’s a known fact that keeping the vegetation high at the waters edge will discourage geese from coming onto a property.  It also provides many water quality and wildlife related benefits.

Test first, apply later.  It is most important to test your soil before even thinking about applying fertilizers.  Once grass is established, fertilizing more than once a year (unless the yearly dosage is applied in fractions) is generally excessive and can lead to excess nitrogen loading to surface and groundwaters. Lawns tend to need less acidic soils, so sometimes just applying crushed limestone to reduce the acidity can release enough nutrients that were bound to the soil to maintain the lawn.  A soil test will let you know exactly what you need to maintain a healthy lawn.  As will often be the case if the test informs you that only nitrogen is needed, look for low to no phosphorus fertilizer blends (middle number of the N-P-K rating on the bag should be “0”) since phosphorous causes algae blooms in lakes.  Generally, a well-established lawn can survive adequately with no more than one to two pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet.  The best time to apply fertilizer on an established lawn is around mid-September when the grass is still active enough to incorporate the fertilizer into the plants, the summer drought is over and the surrounding vegetation is well established to capture any runoff from your lawn.  Choose slow release fertilizers only, to ensure less polluted runoff.  Many folks apply crushed limestone in the spring and fertilize in the fall.  Some folks have never felt the need to fertilize and others have had their best results just using lake water (which usually contains small amounts of nutrients) for irrigation.  It is really up to you to balance the results you are looking for with the minimum applications needed.  Remember, the NH Comprehensive Shoreland Protection Act prohibits applying anything except limestone in areas within 25 feet of the high water line except in some circumstances.

Read the fine print! A recent survey in Maine indicated that many consumers did not realize that “Weed & Feed” products contain both fertilizers and pesticides.  Why pay for and put down something that can potentially threaten the health of pets and children and water quality when you may not need it in the first place?  If you do have weed or insect problems, consult with your county extension educator, landscaper or garden center expert to learn of safer alternative controls.  No matter what you choose to use, always read the application directions and never over-apply.  Many of the plants and animals that form the foundation of the aquatic food web are extremely sensitive to pesticides.

Conserve every drop.  If you are on a public water supply, it is best to choose grass species with low watering requirements or use alternative irrigation supplies like rain barrels or cisterns or even the water directly from the shore.  Summer water demand for lawns can be very significant.  Depending on the species and soil conditions, you should water only when needed, no more than a half inch to an inch total weekly.  You can use a rain gauge or a can to measure rainfall and irrigation amounts.  Early morning watering is preferable to minimize evaporation loss but give the water enough time to infiltrate and to allow the leaf blades to completely dry before night to not encourage disease problems.  Keeping the lawn height at least three inches or higher will also encourage deeper roots which require less water (and a mulching mower blade will allow for those grass clippings to recycle nutrients back into the soil).  Remember that in times of drought and hot summer, lawns are supposed to go dormant.  Letting this happen is the most environmentally friendly thing you can do.

So, the choices are yours—you can have an open space on your property with minimum impact to our waters if you can restrict its size, locate it properly, provide adequate vegetative buffer areas down-slope and use low input design and maintenance methods.

For more information:
Contact Jeff Schloss at jeff.schloss@unh.edu.

Solar Hot Water – Interest is climbing.

April 22nd, 2010 by Everett Pollard

With today’s high fuel costs, tax incentives and rebates, rapidly increasing product options, and growing consumer demand, there has never been a better time to add a solar water heater to a new or existing home.  The U.S. Department of Energy estimates that a home’s domestic water heating costs should drop by 50% to 80% with the installation of a properly sized solar thermal system. Installed costs for typical residential solar water heaters begin at around $5,000, and they qualify for the 30% federal tax credit currently available, as well as for state and local incentives, where available.

Given these offsets, manufacturers claim that a system can recoup its initial cost in as little as three years, but the payback period varies widely depending on the home’s average DHW consumption, local energy prices, geographic location, and other factors, such as whether natural gas, propane (LP), oil, or electricity is used to heat the home’s water.

TYPES OF SOLAR HOT WATER

There are two basic types of solar thermal systems:

“Passive” systems require no pumps or electricity to operate, relying instead on natural thermo-siphon action driven by the temperature differential between the solar collectors and the water inside the storage tank. Because these systems circulate the home’s actual domestic water, they are mainly used in areas where temperatures stay well above freezing.

“Active” solar thermal systems use a differentially controlled pump to circulate freeze-protected fluid, such as glycol, up to the collectors and back to the holding tank through closed-loop heat-exchange tubing, which transfers the fluid’s heat to the home’s domestic water. For maximum energy efficiency, some systems use a small photovoltaic panel mounted with the collectors to power their pumps.

Sun-heated water is not difficult to produce, and the solar collectors available today have changed little in form and function from those developed over the past 50 years. The most common, and typically least expensive, type are flat-plate collectors, which circulate water or fluid through serpentine rows of copper tubing arrayed against a heat-absorbing surface. Average efficiency ratings—the ability to convert sunlight to usable heat energy—for flat-plate solar collectors can reach 80%.

In recent years, manufacturers have increased the efficiency of flat-plate collectors by adding better insulation, heat-retaining glazing, heat-absorbing coatings on the collector plates, and other high-performance features. The low-profile collectors introduced by Velux in 2008, for example, have a complex, computer-designed pattern stamped into the absorber plate surface that refracts solar radiation to increase heat absorption and reduce heat loss from reflectivity.

Evacuated—vacuum—tube solar thermal collectors, the main alternative to flat-plate collectors, collect and transfer heat energy through a series of insulated glass tubes purged to a near-perfect vacuum. Evacuated tubes are growing in popularity because they offer higher heat transfer—manufacturers claim up to 99% efficiency—and are better at capturing solar radiation where site conditions do not allow placing the collector units at an optimum angle toward the sun. This is especially important in cold-weather locations. However, evacuated-tube systems have a higher initial cost, are more susceptible to snow and ice accumulation that limits performance, are at risk for vacuum loss, and are bulkier in design, which many homeowners and communities dislike.

Comparing solar product performance is difficult because it is based on not only the equipment itself but also on the geographic and site conditions where it is installed. The best comparative tool available would probably be the test ratings published by the Solar Rating and Certification Corp. (SRCC) for solar water heater components and systems. These ratings are the basis for obtaining points toward green home certification under the National Green Building Standard.

INSTALLATION CONSIDERATIONS

Homeowners  who expect to install a solar system, whether during new construction or at a future date, should design and orient the home to provide at least one roof section with an un-shaded, south-facing roof slope suitable for a solar array.

According to Coley Fudge of Alteris Renewables, a Vermont-based company that installs solar equipment from a number of manufacturers, roof pitch is another important factor, but it doesn’t limit a builder’s or homeowner’s options. In the Northeast, he explains, “a 45-degree roof angle is ideal, but in summer it doesn’t really matter—you’re going to get 100% [of solar radiation] from a 30- to 40-degree slope. In summer, the ideal angle is only 32 degrees.” Alternatively, roof mounts may be used to improve the collector position on less-than-optimum roof pitches, and solar arrays can be installed on ground-mounted racks when necessary.

Although the sun rises every day, it is not reliable as the sole source of hot water in most geographic locations. Building and plumbing codes recognize this and dictate that a fuel-fired heater be provided to support 100% of a home’s hot water needs, regardless of whether a solar-heating system will be added. As a result, solar thermal systems are sized to supplement, not replace, a home’s own water heater. Solar manufacturers are just beginning to adapt their products to satisfy the code demands. One recently introduced system, Caleffi’s Solarie Solar Heat Pump, eliminates the need for a separate water heater by including a backup gas or electric heating element in its storage tank to provide hot water when the sun cannot.

Buyers should beware that, in order to qualify for federal and most state incentives, the key components of all solar systems—the solar collectors—must meet industry certification standards. The most widely accepted certification is bestowed by the SRCC, which tests and approves solar equipment and systems based on ASHRAE standards. Another third-party organization, IAPMO R&T, certifies equipment according to ANSI standards.

Installing solar water heaters qualifies homes for points under most green certification programs. LEED for Homes offers two points for backup systems accommodating more than 40% of the annual load and three points for systems that account for 60% or more. The ANSI National Green Building Standard awards points (from eight to 20) toward certification for solar water heaters on a scale tied to their SRCC Solar Energy Factor rating.

Michael Morris is a freelance writer for Ecohome Magazine.

Must-Have Features for New Homes

February 16th, 2010 by Everett Pollard

If you believe everything that the “consumer experts” are saying, it would seem that Americans want smaller houses and they are willing to strip some of yesterday’s most popular rooms, such as home theaters, from them in order to accommodate changing lifestyles.  Buyers today want cost-effective architecture, plans that focus on spaces and not rooms and homes that are designed ‘green’ from the outset.

The key for home builders is finding the balance between what buyers want and the price point.  For many buyers, their next house will be smaller than their current one.  Large kitchens that are open to the main family living area, old-fashioned bathrooms with clawfoot tubs and small spaces such as wine grottos are design features that will resonate today.

Here are 9 “must” features in new homes:

Large kitchens, with an island.  If you’re going to spend design dollars, spend them where people want them, in the kitchen. Granite countertops are a must for move-up buyers and buyers of custom homes.

Energy-efficient appliances, high-efficiency insulation and high window efficiency. Among the “green” features touted in homes, these are the ones buyers value most. While large windows had been a major draw, energy concerns are giving customers pause on those. The use of recycled or synthetic materials is only borderline desirable.

Home office/study. People would much rather have this space rather than, say, a formal dining room. People are feeling like they can dine out again and so the dining room has become tradable. And the home theater may also be headed for the scrap heap, a casualty of the shift from boom to correction.

Main-floor master suite. This is a must feature for empty- nesters and certain other buyers, and appears to be getting more popular in general. That could help explain why demand for upstairs laundries is declining after several years of popularity gains.

Outdoor living room. The popularity of outdoor spaces continues to grow, even in New Hampshire. And the idea of an outdoor room is even more popular than an outdoor cooking area, meaning people are willing to spend more time outside.

Ceiling fans.

Oversize custom showers. Whirlpools are still desirable for many home buyers, but they clearly went down a notch in the latest survey. Oversize custom showers with seating areas moving up in popularity among our clients.

Stone veneer  and timber details on exteriors.  Vinyl doesn’t make the cut.

Two-car garages. A given at all levels; three-car garages, in which the third bay is more often than not used for additional storage and not automobiles, is desirable in the move up and custom categories.

A very cool solar roof system!

February 2nd, 2010 by Everett Pollard

01_R_FS_Pt-Townsend_L

 

I just saw this solar standing-seam metal roof system in one of my trade magazines!  Not only does it look great, but it will qualify for federal stimulus rebates of up to 30% of the cost.

FusionSolar™ is a thin-film solar laminate for commercial and residential applications that’s integrated with standing seam metal roof panels. Manufactured for Custom-Bilt Metals by Uni-Solar®, the world leader in thin-film technologies and solar electric laminates, FusionSolar is bonded directly to the standing seam roof panels in the factory. The flexibility and durability of the laminate makes it ideal for metal roofs, where expansion, contraction and curving are considerations. No roof penetrations are required, and because the material is lightweight, no additional structural support is required.

A COMPLETE SYSTEM

FusionSolar is installed as a complete system with all the necessary components. It includes all the electrical components, detailed schematics and specifications that an electrical subcontractor needs for installation.

No specialized solar installers are required. Sheet metal and roofing professionals install the standing seam roof with the thin film already attached. Then an electrical subcontractor completes the installation.

Once installed, the system will begin generating clean, renewable and dependable electric power. Working together with public utilities, the system draws electricity from the grid if needed. Those in the structure use electricity as they do now, and won’t notice any difference.

HIGHLY DURABLE

The laminate bond that’s created between the thin film and the metal roof has been tested to withstand winds of 160 mph. Once installed, the laminate can be safely walked on without causing damage.

FASTER RETURN ON INVESTMENT

Offering a lower cost-per-watt than roof-mounted polycrystalline panels, FusionSolar will pay for itself in 10 years or even less. Once installed, it’s a fixed cost that’s immune from rate hikes.

AESTHETIC DESIGN

The thin-film laminate can cover all of a standing seam roof or just a portion. Lying flat and flush with the surface, the thin film flows with the roof profile, even on curved designs.

NO ROOF PENETRATION REQUIRED

Unlike large polycrystalline panels that are attached by drilling through a roof, FusionSolar is fused directly to the standing seam panel. There’s no roof penetration or possibility of leaking as a result of the installation.

HIGHLY EFFICIENT

Compared to other solar technologies, FusionSolar thin-film laminate achieves a higher relative efficiency under high temperatures and low light.

ENVIRONMENTALLY SAFE

Electricity generated by FusionSolar produces no pollution, replacing electricity that is most often created by burning coal.

Insulation is Sexy?

February 2nd, 2010 by Everett Pollard

“Insulation is Sexy!”

 

Really?   That’s what President Obama said when promoting new tax credits for energy efficiency. He was talking about the so-called “Cash for Caulkers” program (more officially known as Homestar). It’s a program that’s been proposed by both venture capitalist John Doerr and former President Bill Clinton that would offer homeowners money for weatherization as part of another stimulus package. The program would give tax breaks to pay for upgrades and energy audits.

 

It’s a great idea — it creates business, therefore creates jobs and makes homes more efficient. People like to talk about building more energy efficient homes, but the reality is that even building every one of the 500,000 or so homes being built more efficiently will make only a tiny dent in energy usage compared to the potential of upgrading the millions of existing homes. Supporters of the program, which is apparently being considered at the White House, say it would lead to retrofits of 5.9 million homes and create 500,000 jobs.

 

The Home Star program — or “Cash for Caulkers” as some have dubbed it — could provide a big boost to home energy efficiency through billions in tax credits and other incentives over two years. President Obama came out in favor of the program in December as part of the administration’s plan to drive job creation, but the final approval has to come from Congress. The exact size of the program is uncertain, but Efficiency First, a trade association started in early 2009 for home energy-efficiency contractors that helped craft Home Star, put the price tag at about $23 billion.

 

What would the money go for? Here’s how Efficiency First breaks it down:

•$6 billion in funding for homeowner incentives for those who do at least two significant weatherization projects from a list of 10 eligible project types such as air sealing or insulation. Completing two projects would result in up to $2,000 in subsidies and completing four could earn $3,500, capped at 50 percent of project cost.

•$12 billion for homeowners who undertake a weatherization project that reduces energy consumption by at least 20 percent. A 20 percent reduction would earn a $4,000 subsidy and each additional 5 percent would result in another $1,500 subsidy, with funding capped at 50 percent of project cost.

•$2 billion for program administration, including audits of some projects to confirm they’re meeting the energy improvements

•$3 billion in incentives to encourage retailers to support the program to build awareness and educate consumers

Efficiency First says the program would result in 5.9 million residential energy retrofits and create more than 500,000 jobs new jobs in construction and related industries. “Unemployment in the construction industry is double the rest of the economy,” says Matt Golden, founding president of Efficiency First. “Considering the underreporting in this industry, it’s probably really up in the 20s. These really are smart jobs, because they’re long-term.”

 

The National Association of Home Builders estimates that 11,000 jobs; $527 million in wages and salaries; and $300 million in business income are generated by every $1 billion in new remodeling and home improvement activity. “That’s a huge impact just in the short run, and in the long run, the energy savings for participating homeowners can be quite significant,” says NAHB Chairman Joe Robson.

 

(Adapted from an article in Professional Remodeler Magazine)