Please bring any donations to the Northcape Design office at 3 Alpine Court in Sunapee.  We will deliver these urgently needed items to the UVHS for you.  Thanks!

Registration Required!   Call Bonin Architects at 603-504-6009

Directions given to registrants only.

 If you are thinking of building a home or are purchasing a home in Sunapee, New London, Newbury, or another surrounding town that needs a renovation, call to register to attend our next Open House near Sunapee Harbor on scenic Lake Sunapee!

Not only will you be able to tour a beautiful custom home, you’ll be able to interview area green building experts at a Q&A discussion.  Gather your questions and ideas for Green Architect Jeremy Bonin of Bonin Architects & Associates, Custom Builder Everett Pollard of Northcape Design / Build, and Dan O’Halloran of Colby Real Estate!  Ask about:

Green building materials – Local construction costs – Green home design & why it is important

Solar and geothermal heating – Metal roofs vs. asphalt shingles – Shoreland Protection Act guidelines

and more!

Jeremy Bonin, AIA NCARB LEED AP:

Jeremy is a principal partner of Bonin Architects & Associates, award-winning architect, and the author of TIMBER FRAMES: Designing Your Custom Home.  Jeremy has a special interest in sustainable design and green building.  

Everett Pollard, AIA assoc.,  AIBD, CGP, CGR:

 For over thirty years Everett has been designing and building award-winning custom homes in the Lake Sunapee area. As a Certified Green Builder, Everett’s  priorities are successfully balanced between preserving the environment and providing superior customer service to his clients.

Dan O’Halloran:

Dan is a high-energy realtor who specializes in residential real estate and uses the most current marketing and advertising technology and techniques available in the real estate industry to achieve maximum visibility for every client.  His background in finance and marketing rounds out his qualifications and enhances his skills he offers.

Check this out!  A brand new publication, “A Shoreland Homeowner’s Guide to Stormwater Management: protecting your home & environment” by the NH Dept. of Environmental Services provides several simple and cost effective practices that shoreland homeowners can install to address stormwater runoff from roofs, patios, lawns and driveways.

by Jeff Schloss, Extension Professor and Water Resources Specialist, University of New Hampshire

There is often controversy and confusion regarding lawns on shoreland properties.  Some consider lawns inconsistent with the natural shoreland ecology while others want to bring to their shoreland home the same look and feel as the neighborhoods in surburbia that they have grown up with. 

As all vegetation provides at least some water quality functions, a lawn managed in the proper way can still allow for stabilized soils, filtered water infiltration into the ground and some nutrient and pollutant capture.  And, as with all vegetation, lawns sequester carbon dioxide, produce oxygen and, by doing so, cool the planet.  Thus, lawns still make a better alternative to pavement or patios which create greater runoff conditions and impede groundwater recharge. 

Of course, managed improperly, lawns and their care can add to pollutant and nutrient loading to our surface and ground waters, attract nuisance weed plants and insect pests (and even big pests like Canadian Geese!), impact important plant and wildlife species, as well as greatly reduce the available drinkable water supply with their potential need for irrigation.  So, how might you maintain a lawn area to enjoy on your shoreland property (or any property for that matter) while minimizing your impacts to the water quality and natural ecology?

The recent publication, “Landscaping at the Waters Edge: An ecological approach” from UNH Cooperative Extension (extension.unh.edu/resources/) covers the importance of considering how you may landscape your shoreline property for the improvement of water quality as you also enhance the enjoyment and value of your property.  While the publication goes into much greater and more specific detail, the information below is a good start when considering lawns and their potential impacts to water quality.

Everything in moderation.  We often hear from our health providers that moderation is the key to healthy living and the same holds true for natural systems.  Questions to ask yourself here include: How much lawn or open space do we really need for our intended uses?  Do we need to have our open space all as a monoculture of a single type of grass or can we live with a combination of grasses and groundcovers that match our use?  There are many varieties of grasses depending on the type and frequency of use (i.e.; occasionally picnicking to kids playing ball everyday) and site conditions (soils, sun exposure and slope).  Recently developed fescue grasses, for example, require less maintenance (water, mowing and fertilizing) and can even be obtained with symbiotic bacteria in their roots that make the grass better resistant to pests and diseases.  The best approach is a mix of grass species with other groundcovers and white clover (or another low growing legume to naturally supply nitrogen to the soil).  Talk to your county extension educator, landscaper, or garden center expert about your options.

Location, location, location. Yes, the mantra of real estate agents also works well for lawns.  Since a lawn requires additional maintenance that even, when not excessive, can still threaten water quality, locating the lawn as far away from the shore as you possibly can and maintaining a significant buffer area downslope from the lawn with a mix of shrubs and woody plants to make up for this.  A lawn leading right down to the water is the worst thing for the water and it will attract nuisance geese.  It’s a known fact that keeping the vegetation high at the waters edge will discourage geese from coming onto a property.  It also provides many water quality and wildlife related benefits.

Test first, apply later.  It is most important to test your soil before even thinking about applying fertilizers.  Once grass is established, fertilizing more than once a year (unless the yearly dosage is applied in fractions) is generally excessive and can lead to excess nitrogen loading to surface and groundwaters. Lawns tend to need less acidic soils, so sometimes just applying crushed limestone to reduce the acidity can release enough nutrients that were bound to the soil to maintain the lawn.  A soil test will let you know exactly what you need to maintain a healthy lawn.  As will often be the case if the test informs you that only nitrogen is needed, look for low to no phosphorus fertilizer blends (middle number of the N-P-K rating on the bag should be “0”) since phosphorous causes algae blooms in lakes.  Generally, a well-established lawn can survive adequately with no more than one to two pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet.  The best time to apply fertilizer on an established lawn is around mid-September when the grass is still active enough to incorporate the fertilizer into the plants, the summer drought is over and the surrounding vegetation is well established to capture any runoff from your lawn.  Choose slow release fertilizers only, to ensure less polluted runoff.  Many folks apply crushed limestone in the spring and fertilize in the fall.  Some folks have never felt the need to fertilize and others have had their best results just using lake water (which usually contains small amounts of nutrients) for irrigation.  It is really up to you to balance the results you are looking for with the minimum applications needed.  Remember, the NH Comprehensive Shoreland Protection Act prohibits applying anything except limestone in areas within 25 feet of the high water line except in some circumstances.

Read the fine print! A recent survey in Maine indicated that many consumers did not realize that “Weed & Feed” products contain both fertilizers and pesticides.  Why pay for and put down something that can potentially threaten the health of pets and children and water quality when you may not need it in the first place?  If you do have weed or insect problems, consult with your county extension educator, landscaper or garden center expert to learn of safer alternative controls.  No matter what you choose to use, always read the application directions and never over-apply.  Many of the plants and animals that form the foundation of the aquatic food web are extremely sensitive to pesticides.

Conserve every drop.  If you are on a public water supply, it is best to choose grass species with low watering requirements or use alternative irrigation supplies like rain barrels or cisterns or even the water directly from the shore.  Summer water demand for lawns can be very significant.  Depending on the species and soil conditions, you should water only when needed, no more than a half inch to an inch total weekly.  You can use a rain gauge or a can to measure rainfall and irrigation amounts.  Early morning watering is preferable to minimize evaporation loss but give the water enough time to infiltrate and to allow the leaf blades to completely dry before night to not encourage disease problems.  Keeping the lawn height at least three inches or higher will also encourage deeper roots which require less water (and a mulching mower blade will allow for those grass clippings to recycle nutrients back into the soil).  Remember that in times of drought and hot summer, lawns are supposed to go dormant.  Letting this happen is the most environmentally friendly thing you can do.

So, the choices are yours—you can have an open space on your property with minimum impact to our waters if you can restrict its size, locate it properly, provide adequate vegetative buffer areas down-slope and use low input design and maintenance methods.

For more information:
Contact Jeff Schloss at jeff.schloss@unh.edu.

Join Bonin Architects, Northcape Design and Colby Real Estate

for an open house at a custom home near Lake Sunapee. 

Ask any question and get the answers you need

to get started on your building or remodeling project!

• Shoreland Protection Guidelines
• Budgeting and Costs
• Green Design and Construction
• Benefits of Solar & Geothermal Heating

When:  Saturday, May 1st,  4:00PM to 6:00PM

Registration required!  Call Bonin Architects at 603-504-6009

Directions given to registrants only.

About the Speakers:

Jeremy Bonin, AIA NCARB LEED AP:
Jeremy Bonin, a principal partner of Bonin Architects & Associates, is an accomplished speaker, award-winning architect, and the author of TIMBER FRAMES: Designing Your Custom Home, which was written to help homeowners become fully involved in the design of a custom home.  Jeremy has a special interest in sustainable design and green building while incorporating energy efficient building materials and renewable energy systems including geothermal heating, wind power, and solar energy.  

Dan O’Halloran:
Dan is a high-energy realtor who specializes in residential real estate.  Over the past four years with Colby Real Estate he has gained considerable experience working with clients and developers on view lots and subdivision transactions.  Dan uses the most current marketing and advertising technology and techniques available in the real estate industry to achieve maximum visibility for every client he works with.  His background in finance and marketing rounds out his qualifications and enhances his skills he offers.

Everett Pollard, AIA assoc.,  AIBD, CGP, CGR:
For over thirty years Everett has been designing and building award-winning custom homes in the Lake Sunapee area. He and his staff are involved from day one of their projects, assuring a successful and fun process.  Everett is dedicated to the building industry as a whole, which is evident by his active role in associations such as the local and national Home Builder’s Association.  As a Certified Green Builder, Everett’s priorities are successfully balanced between preserving the environment and providing superior customer service to his clients.

Given these offsets, manufacturers claim that a system can recoup its initial cost in as little as three years, but the payback period varies widely depending on the home’s average DHW consumption, local energy prices, geographic location, and other factors, such as whether natural gas, propane (LP), oil, or electricity is used to heat the home’s water.

TYPES OF SOLAR HOT WATER

There are two basic types of solar thermal systems:

“Passive” systems require no pumps or electricity to operate, relying instead on natural thermo-siphon action driven by the temperature differential between the solar collectors and the water inside the storage tank. Because these systems circulate the home’s actual domestic water, they are mainly used in areas where temperatures stay well above freezing.

“Active” solar thermal systems use a differentially controlled pump to circulate freeze-protected fluid, such as glycol, up to the collectors and back to the holding tank through closed-loop heat-exchange tubing, which transfers the fluid’s heat to the home’s domestic water. For maximum energy efficiency, some systems use a small photovoltaic panel mounted with the collectors to power their pumps.

Sun-heated water is not difficult to produce, and the solar collectors available today have changed little in form and function from those developed over the past 50 years. The most common, and typically least expensive, type are flat-plate collectors, which circulate water or fluid through serpentine rows of copper tubing arrayed against a heat-absorbing surface. Average efficiency ratings—the ability to convert sunlight to usable heat energy—for flat-plate solar collectors can reach 80%.

In recent years, manufacturers have increased the efficiency of flat-plate collectors by adding better insulation, heat-retaining glazing, heat-absorbing coatings on the collector plates, and other high-performance features. The low-profile collectors introduced by Velux in 2008, for example, have a complex, computer-designed pattern stamped into the absorber plate surface that refracts solar radiation to increase heat absorption and reduce heat loss from reflectivity.

Evacuated—vacuum—tube solar thermal collectors, the main alternative to flat-plate collectors, collect and transfer heat energy through a series of insulated glass tubes purged to a near-perfect vacuum. Evacuated tubes are growing in popularity because they offer higher heat transfer—manufacturers claim up to 99% efficiency—and are better at capturing solar radiation where site conditions do not allow placing the collector units at an optimum angle toward the sun. This is especially important in cold-weather locations. However, evacuated-tube systems have a higher initial cost, are more susceptible to snow and ice accumulation that limits performance, are at risk for vacuum loss, and are bulkier in design, which many homeowners and communities dislike.

Comparing solar product performance is difficult because it is based on not only the equipment itself but also on the geographic and site conditions where it is installed. The best comparative tool available would probably be the test ratings published by the Solar Rating and Certification Corp. (SRCC) for solar water heater components and systems. These ratings are the basis for obtaining points toward green home certification under the National Green Building Standard.

INSTALLATION CONSIDERATIONS

Homeowners  who expect to install a solar system, whether during new construction or at a future date, should design and orient the home to provide at least one roof section with an un-shaded, south-facing roof slope suitable for a solar array.

According to Coley Fudge of Alteris Renewables, a Vermont-based company that installs solar equipment from a number of manufacturers, roof pitch is another important factor, but it doesn’t limit a builder’s or homeowner’s options. In the Northeast, he explains, “a 45-degree roof angle is ideal, but in summer it doesn’t really matter—you’re going to get 100% [of solar radiation] from a 30- to 40-degree slope. In summer, the ideal angle is only 32 degrees.” Alternatively, roof mounts may be used to improve the collector position on less-than-optimum roof pitches, and solar arrays can be installed on ground-mounted racks when necessary.

Although the sun rises every day, it is not reliable as the sole source of hot water in most geographic locations. Building and plumbing codes recognize this and dictate that a fuel-fired heater be provided to support 100% of a home’s hot water needs, regardless of whether a solar-heating system will be added. As a result, solar thermal systems are sized to supplement, not replace, a home’s own water heater. Solar manufacturers are just beginning to adapt their products to satisfy the code demands. One recently introduced system, Caleffi’s Solarie Solar Heat Pump, eliminates the need for a separate water heater by including a backup gas or electric heating element in its storage tank to provide hot water when the sun cannot.

Buyers should beware that, in order to qualify for federal and most state incentives, the key components of all solar systems—the solar collectors—must meet industry certification standards. The most widely accepted certification is bestowed by the SRCC, which tests and approves solar equipment and systems based on ASHRAE standards. Another third-party organization, IAPMO R&T, certifies equipment according to ANSI standards.

Installing solar water heaters qualifies homes for points under most green certification programs. LEED for Homes offers two points for backup systems accommodating more than 40% of the annual load and three points for systems that account for 60% or more. The ANSI National Green Building Standard awards points (from eight to 20) toward certification for solar water heaters on a scale tied to their SRCC Solar Energy Factor rating.

Michael Morris is a freelance writer for Ecohome Magazine.

The key for home builders is finding the balance between what buyers want and the price point.  For many buyers, their next house will be smaller than their current one.  Large kitchens that are open to the main family living area, old-fashioned bathrooms with clawfoot tubs and small spaces such as wine grottos are design features that will resonate today.

Here are 9 “must” features in new homes:

Large kitchens, with an island.  If you’re going to spend design dollars, spend them where people want them, in the kitchen. Granite countertops are a must for move-up buyers and buyers of custom homes.

Energy-efficient appliances, high-efficiency insulation and high window efficiency. Among the “green” features touted in homes, these are the ones buyers value most. While large windows had been a major draw, energy concerns are giving customers pause on those. The use of recycled or synthetic materials is only borderline desirable.

Home office/study. People would much rather have this space rather than, say, a formal dining room. People are feeling like they can dine out again and so the dining room has become tradable. And the home theater may also be headed for the scrap heap, a casualty of the shift from boom to correction.

Main-floor master suite. This is a must feature for empty- nesters and certain other buyers, and appears to be getting more popular in general. That could help explain why demand for upstairs laundries is declining after several years of popularity gains.

Outdoor living room. The popularity of outdoor spaces continues to grow, even in New Hampshire. And the idea of an outdoor room is even more popular than an outdoor cooking area, meaning people are willing to spend more time outside.

Ceiling fans.

Oversize custom showers. Whirlpools are still desirable for many home buyers, but they clearly went down a notch in the latest survey. Oversize custom showers with seating areas moving up in popularity among our clients.

Stone veneer  and timber details on exteriors.  Vinyl doesn’t make the cut.

Two-car garages. A given at all levels; three-car garages, in which the third bay is more often than not used for additional storage and not automobiles, is desirable in the move up and custom categories.

I just saw this solar standing-seam metal roof system in one of my trade magazines!  Not only does it look great, but it will qualify for federal stimulus rebates of up to 30% of the cost.

FusionSolar™ is a thin-film solar laminate for commercial and residential applications that’s integrated with standing seam metal roof panels. Manufactured for Custom-Bilt Metals by Uni-Solar®, the world leader in thin-film technologies and solar electric laminates, FusionSolar is bonded directly to the standing seam roof panels in the factory. The flexibility and durability of the laminate makes it ideal for metal roofs, where expansion, contraction and curving are considerations. No roof penetrations are required, and because the material is lightweight, no additional structural support is required.

A COMPLETE SYSTEM

FusionSolar is installed as a complete system with all the necessary components. It includes all the electrical components, detailed schematics and specifications that an electrical subcontractor needs for installation.

No specialized solar installers are required. Sheet metal and roofing professionals install the standing seam roof with the thin film already attached. Then an electrical subcontractor completes the installation.

Once installed, the system will begin generating clean, renewable and dependable electric power. Working together with public utilities, the system draws electricity from the grid if needed. Those in the structure use electricity as they do now, and won’t notice any difference.

HIGHLY DURABLE

The laminate bond that’s created between the thin film and the metal roof has been tested to withstand winds of 160 mph. Once installed, the laminate can be safely walked on without causing damage.

FASTER RETURN ON INVESTMENT

Offering a lower cost-per-watt than roof-mounted polycrystalline panels, FusionSolar will pay for itself in 10 years or even less. Once installed, it’s a fixed cost that’s immune from rate hikes.

AESTHETIC DESIGN

The thin-film laminate can cover all of a standing seam roof or just a portion. Lying flat and flush with the surface, the thin film flows with the roof profile, even on curved designs.

NO ROOF PENETRATION REQUIRED

Unlike large polycrystalline panels that are attached by drilling through a roof, FusionSolar is fused directly to the standing seam panel. There’s no roof penetration or possibility of leaking as a result of the installation.

HIGHLY EFFICIENT

Compared to other solar technologies, FusionSolar thin-film laminate achieves a higher relative efficiency under high temperatures and low light.

ENVIRONMENTALLY SAFE

Electricity generated by FusionSolar produces no pollution, replacing electricity that is most often created by burning coal.

Really?   That’s what President Obama said when promoting new tax credits for energy efficiency. He was talking about the so-called “Cash for Caulkers” program (more officially known as Homestar). It’s a program that’s been proposed by both venture capitalist John Doerr and former President Bill Clinton that would offer homeowners money for weatherization as part of another stimulus package. The program would give tax breaks to pay for upgrades and energy audits.

It’s a great idea — it creates business, therefore creates jobs and makes homes more efficient. People like to talk about building more energy efficient homes, but the reality is that even building every one of the 500,000 or so homes being built more efficiently will make only a tiny dent in energy usage compared to the potential of upgrading the millions of existing homes. Supporters of the program, which is apparently being considered at the White House, say it would lead to retrofits of 5.9 million homes and create 500,000 jobs.

The Home Star program — or “Cash for Caulkers” as some have dubbed it — could provide a big boost to home energy efficiency through billions in tax credits and other incentives over two years. President Obama came out in favor of the program in December as part of the administration’s plan to drive job creation, but the final approval has to come from Congress. The exact size of the program is uncertain, but Efficiency First, a trade association started in early 2009 for home energy-efficiency contractors that helped craft Home Star, put the price tag at about $23 billion.

What would the money go for? Here’s how Efficiency First breaks it down:

•$6 billion in funding for homeowner incentives for those who do at least two significant weatherization projects from a list of 10 eligible project types such as air sealing or insulation. Completing two projects would result in up to $2,000 in subsidies and completing four could earn $3,500, capped at 50 percent of project cost.

•$12 billion for homeowners who undertake a weatherization project that reduces energy consumption by at least 20 percent. A 20 percent reduction would earn a $4,000 subsidy and each additional 5 percent would result in another $1,500 subsidy, with funding capped at 50 percent of project cost.

•$2 billion for program administration, including audits of some projects to confirm they’re meeting the energy improvements

•$3 billion in incentives to encourage retailers to support the program to build awareness and educate consumers

Efficiency First says the program would result in 5.9 million residential energy retrofits and create more than 500,000 jobs new jobs in construction and related industries. “Unemployment in the construction industry is double the rest of the economy,” says Matt Golden, founding president of Efficiency First. “Considering the underreporting in this industry, it’s probably really up in the 20s. These really are smart jobs, because they’re long-term.”

The National Association of Home Builders estimates that 11,000 jobs; $527 million in wages and salaries; and $300 million in business income are generated by every $1 billion in new remodeling and home improvement activity. “That’s a huge impact just in the short run, and in the long run, the energy savings for participating homeowners can be quite significant,” says NAHB Chairman Joe Robson.

(Adapted from an article in Professional Remodeler Magazine)

According to the Department of Energy, hydronic systems average 26 percent less air leakage and a 40 percent reduction in energy usage versus forced air heating systems. Because the system heats from the ground-up, lower temperatures are found at ceiling height, resulting in lower heat loss through ceilings or ceiling penetrations.

The ultimate goal of hydronic heating is to keep and maintain a constant core temperature in the home. There are a variety of retrofit installation options that include panel, slab, thin-slab, snap-panel and heat transfer plates, all of which can deliver hot water via PEX tubing in either “wet-mass” (i.e. concrete) systems or non-concrete “dry-mass” installations.

Thick concrete slab systems have a high heat capacity and are ideal for storing heat from solar energy systems, which have a fluctuating heat output. The downside of the thick slabs is the slow thermal response time. Most experts recommend maintaining a constant temperature in homes with these heating systems. Other installations, such as snap panels, are a dry-mass approach. Snap panels are aluminum panels heated by 3/8- or ½-inch tubing. Most measure five to six inches wide and less than two feet in length. These offer a lower up-front material cost than some wet mass systems and are easier to install in many instances.

The Other Side

While hydronic systems are mostly made for a whole-home approach, electric radiant heating methods can be an equally viable alternative in the right application. Electric radiant floors, also known as dry installations, typically consist of electric cables or mats built into the floor. Systems that feature mats of electrically conductive plastic are also available and are mounted onto the subfloor below a floor covering such as tile. These are pre-built like an electric blanket and are divided into sections, then wired to a central location. Many systems consume a mere 10–20 watts per square foot at full power consumption and can be set to pulse on and off to maintain the temperature the homeowner sets. Given the relatively high cost of electricity in the winter, the most common application for ERH is kitchens and master bathrooms and you can even install a timer so it is only on during those times that you are likely to to be using the bathroom or kitchen.

Does it matter which type of floor you have?

Ceramic tile and wood plank flooring are the most common and effective floor covering for radiant floor heating, but you can also use vinyl, linoleum or carpeting. But remember, any floor covering (say, a thick carpet) that helps to insulate the floor from the room will decrease the effectiveness of the heating system.